Learning to cook
With
some nervousness I turned up for the first cookery lesson of my
life at an expensive Paris hotel off the Champs Elysées.
1.G I had cooked for twenty years, but never
professionally, and here I was, on a course run by the well-known
French chef, Guy Dupois. Would I be the only middle-aged
housewife on the course, surrounded by keen young professionals,
all eager to learn from the new guru of French cooking?
I
found myself in a group of twenty-five people, and their ages ranged
from their early twenties through to their late fifties. 2.F
I was by no means the oldest, and, as I was to discover, by no means
the least experienced. Perhaps the only two characteristics
we all had in common were our ability to understand French (though
not all of us could speak it well) and our ability to pay the 10,000
francs for a weekend's cookery course.
Guy
Dupois is a flamboyant personality. He dresses in extravagantly
colourful clothes with none of those typical white chef's hats and
aprons, and he speaks French at tremendous speed, making no allowances
for the half of us who were foreigners on the course. 3.
B We were waiting silently in the kitchen for him to arrive, and
he burst into the room, already talking and giving instructions
as the door opened. Within five minutes he had us peeling
potatoes, slicing carrots and chopping onions.
Everything
had to be done with great speed, and cut exactly to the size he
required. 4.A Slice your carrots too thin
and he rejects them with a disdainful gesture. "Those
are only fit for the soup," he would say, before grabbing a
potato from the hand of another student and showing him how to peel
it in the way he wanted.
After
a session of preparing ingredients for cooking, but no cooking,
he moved on to other secrets. We were told to pick up the different
foods and smell them. 5.E For Guy Dupois,
the smell of the raw ingredients is a key to the composition of
the various dishes we would later concoct. He insists that
the best cooking is invention, not following recipes. You cannot
taste the food before you cook it, but you can have an idea of the
flavours that combine by smelling them before you start, and this
allows you to imagine the finished product.
Later
in the day we were instructed in the many techniques of good cooking:
how to grill, fry, boil and roast correctly. We were taught to use
herbs and spices sparingly. 6. I As Guy Dupois
says, the art of great cookery is to produce a dish where you are
able to taste each ingredient individually. If the taste
of the food needs hiding with herbs and spices, the basic ingredients
are not of good enough quality, or you are cooking lazily.
cont'd...
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